We would all love to stay in luxury hotels and buzz around the countryside by helicopter. Or would we?

Of course, luxury hotels are fabulous - I have always wanted to stay in one of those places where you have your own private pool right outside your room – but do tourists coming to a county like Nepal really want or expect this?

I feel the answer is no.

Tourists to Nepal are after some adventure and something different than they get elsewhere. Not many want to stay in accommodation that could be anywhere in the world, or travel in a way that means they don’t get to interact with locals and miss out on the smaller things that make Nepali culture unique.

I do know several people who would never come to a ‘developing’ country but prefer places like New York, London or some well-established beach resort in Hawaii. But most people want to experience something different on their holiday – and that is definitely Nepal.

Luxury Hotels

There are more and more chain hotels going up in Kathmandu and even plans for luxury hotels in places like Mustang (Annapurna Trek area). Do we really need them?

While middle-class Indian tourists flock to the likes of the Marriott and Hyatt Hotel, there is also a great deal of Indians who are on pilgrimage in Nepal and are staying either on their bus or in very low-end accommodation. These are the two extremes of tourists from one country. Hotels are also springing up near the Indian border – such as the Soaltee in Nepalganj and Tiger Palace Resort near Lumbini to meet the needs of the middle-class traveler. But the majority of those Indians are coming to Nepal to go to casinos, nightclubs, and for shopping as it is easier, safer, and more interesting than at home. This is a niche market that would most likely benefit from luxury tourism.

luxury hotel in nepal

As for tourists from Western countries – there are basically the backpackers and those, normally a bit older, who have a bit more money to spend and want a little more comfort. But the line is becoming a bit blurred as millennials are getting older and demanding more comfort and social media influences are getting richer and demanding more for their money. But in general, people from the west are coming to Nepal to trek or go on adventure holidays such as wildlife safaris and white water rafting, not too lazy around the hotel pool and casino. As far as I can tell, they don’t really want to stay in those ubiquitous chain hotels they can find at home or on business trips. They want to see real Nepal and experience something different.

It is, of course, possible to have both comfort and authenticity. Take Dwarika’s Hotel in Kathmandu and their resort in Dhulikhel, for example. Comfort with Nepali handcrafted furniture and fittings. Some of the older 3 and 4-star hotels, such as Hotel Tibet, Hotel Manaslu, Shankar Hotel, etc., also have a Nepali feel. Some of these hotels, probably established 40 plus years ago, are now looking a bit tired but still have a good following among clients.

But, do first-time visitors want to stay in a tired-looking hotel?

Fine Line

It’s a fine line between being too modern and being too outdated. Well, actually, it’s not a fine line – it’s a great chasm. But there are not many good hotels in between.

Leaving backpacker hotels aside – although as I mentioned, even backpackers are becoming more discerning these days – how many hotels really cater to those who want comfort but don’t want to pay a fortune and want something more authentically Nepali for their money?

In my opinion, Kathmandu and other larger towns need less $200 plus a night hotels and more $50-$75 a night hotels, which are worth the money and not just one-star places ripping people off.

Tours and Transport

The accommodation on the majority of treks is teahouses. Yes, there are some more upmarket hotels in the likes of Namche Bazaar on the Everest Base Camp Trek and at lower altitudes in other areas, but on the whole, at altitude, the lodges are basic. Most trekkers have done their homework and researched ‘things to know before going to Nepal’ so no surprises there.

Regarding tours and transport around the country, there are some luxury deals on offer like the Breakfast on Everest Helicopter Tour or wildlife safaris provided by luxury ‘safari lodges’ such as Tiger Tops of old (now an elephant sanctuary but still with that old-world standard of service) and the newer, and as expensive Barahi Jungle Lodge, both near Chitwan National Park.

safari in nepal

Definitely, it is better to travel with more comfort and safety, in a private vehicle than on a public bus and I wouldn’t suggest anyone going by public transport if there is an alternative. There are tourist buses running from Kathmandu to Pokhara and from Kathmandu to some other towns which are much safer and stop at better rest stops than the normal local buses.

Customer Service

I would like to see less ‘luxury’ and more customer service. Twenty-odd years ago the owner of one large hotel said, "we really need to offer visitors more than a smile”. Today that is even truer. While 30 or 40 years ago visitors were enthralled with Nepali people and their friendly smiles, the smiles have slipped a bit today as visitors are not such a unique occurrence. And visitors no longer (thankfully) see Nepal as a novelty but as a real tourist destination that has to provide what other tourist destinations provide – good and honest customer service. And yes, still with a smile!

Training

Today, some good colleges and institutes provide training for those in the hospitality industry. Some of the chain hotels have their own in-house training to international standards. And of course, trekking guides are trained in emergency procedures for in the mountains. Moreover, climbing guides have rigorous training to go through. In fact, climbing and trekking guides must hold a license in their field.

Food and Beverage

Even 20 years ago, if you got a good omelette and pancakes for breakfast and a reasonable pasta for dinner you thought you struck the jackpot! Today things in Kathmandu and Pokhara are much different. There are some amazing chefs serving amazing food. You can, in fact, get almost every kind of global cuisine in Kathmandu now.

Three of my favorite places are:-

1) Edamame in the Marriott Hotel which serves magical pan-Asian cuisine. Only open for dinner, this restaurant is not cheap, but it’s an experience in itself. My suggestion, drink in the Raksi Music Bar, one floor below, before and after. Dine in Edamame and save money on drinks by only buying in the bar.

2) Nomad Hotel, near the Radisson Hotel, Lazimpat. I found this hotel in 2021, and it was one of the few places my friends and I could meet during semi-lockdown. The chef has been trained by an Italian who used to live in Kathmandu and is amazing! My only comment is that they do have very odd times – breakfast the usual 7 am till 10.30 am, lunch 11 am till 3.30 pm then a change to the dinner menu. For my money breakfast and lunch are the best. You will be pleasantly surprised by the high standard of accommodation in this hotel's hidden gem.

3) Chez Caroline, Babar Mahal Revisited. A long-established French restaurant run by a French lady offers a good array of French and continental food. Set in a courtyard of this recreated Rana palace, there is unique shopping there too and it is a wonderful place to get away from the hustle and bustle of the rest of the city.

Of course, all these three restaurants have good customer service! Naturally, there is a good range of other cafes and restaurants that have good customer service – and often it’s the staff who have been working there for decades that are the best.

A café or restaurant need not be luxurious in style or looks to have good food and a friendly atmosphere, but they do need great service to get me back again!

Your Opinion Counts

We want to know what you think – luxury accommodation and tours or more simple styles. And how do you rate customer service in Nepal? Please do get in touch and let us know your views.